* The edge has become too dull to be honed.
* You want to change the shape of the edge, e.g. the edge plane angle.
* You want to change the edge angle.
* The edge has become damaged.
The Sharpening Process
Sharpening can be done either free hand or with
jigs on the grindstone. Using jigs is easier and gives you a better result as you can concentrate on where the edge touches the grinding wheel without needing to pay attention to the edge angle and the positioning of the tool, which is controlled by the jig. Before you start sharpening, grind the edge to its correct shape. Viewed from the side, the edge should look like a straight line, the edge plane angle.
Good lighting is important for all sharpening and honing work, but it is an absolute necessity when sharpening carving gouges and V-tools, since you must clearly be able see the line of light. Use a flexible lamp and position it close to the machine.
Carving gouges and V-tools have wings. These lean more or less forward when the bevel lies flat on the wood. The inclination can be described as the edge plane angle. This angle controls how the tool will cut in the wood. It should be around 20° to make the wings and the centre part of the edge work in the best way and leave a clean cut in the wood. This recommendation is independent of the edge angle.
NOTE: Grinding woodcarving tools on high speed grinders and belt grinders is absolutely not recommended! They grind too aggressively, which makes it impossible to control the grinding and the heat development draws the hardening of the thin steel.
After sharpening, the bevel is honed to give it as fine a surface as possible. The remaining burr on the flute (inside) must also be honed away. The outside honing can be done free hand with a fine grit bench stone or with jigs on your
honing wheel. The inside can be honed freehand with slip stones or on your
LA-120 Profiled Leather Honing Wheel.
Honing is very important, as a finer surface on the bevel and flute makes the tool cut more easily and also makes the sharpness last longer. The surface left on the wood will also be smoother with a perfectly honed tool.
It is an advantage to use the jigs also when honing. By doing so, you work at exactly the same angle as when sharpening and the edge receives exactly the same movement pattern towards the honing wheel as towards the grinding wheel. Furthermore, you can make test cuts in the wood and then – if necessary – go back and continue the honing, with exactly the same position of the tool towards the honing wheel.
Rounding of the Tip
The Tormek leather honing wheels work in the same way as a strop made of leather glued onto a piece of wood. If you look at the edge under a microscope, you will notice that the very outer tip of the edge is slightly rounded off as the leather honing wheel is not as firm as a grindstone. However, when using a jig this rounding off is negligible and has no negative influence on the cutting ability of the tool. Actually it is likely that the microscopic rounding off reinforces the very outer sensitive tip of the edge.
Theoretically, an edge tip honed on a flat hard bench stone could be considered to be sharper. However, this is only the case before you start to work with the tool. As soon as the edge penetrates into the wood, it will be affected by the fibres and become microscopically rounded off and even bent. This is because the outer tip is extremely sensitive on these tools, which have small edge angles, sometimes only 20°. What determines the practical quality of the edge sharpness and its durability, is how the tool works after a couple of cuts in the wood.